New Mexico Part 6: Roswell, Carlsbad Caverns, Home

As we left Santa Fe and headed back towards Austin, we passed through Roswell. Roswell's claim to fame is that aliens landed there nearly 70 years ago. My impression of Roswell is that they really, really want the aliens to come back. A very alien-friendly town.

Even the street lights are alien heads.

The final stop on our trip was Carlsbad Caverns.

We decided that we wouldn't try to hike out with Jackson and Olivia in tow. Instead, we opted for the "Big Room" tour. I had it in my head that we would take the elevator down, look around in some sort of large cavern (i.e. big room) and come back up. Actually, the tour involved much more than that -- an hour and a half walk through seemingly endless underground limestone caves.

I'd never seen anything like this. There was a field trip to the salt mines when I was in grade school, but really, I'm not much of a "spend large amounts of time underground" person. Anyway, this was so much more than I could've imagined.

The formations (speleothems, if you want to use the big science word correct term) ranged from towering to miniature. Nature at its most amazing.

Hats off to whoever designed the lighting, by the way. Obviously there's no natural light 750 feet underground, yet our path was well-lit, and the dramatic areas of light and dark created a greater visual impact each time we wandered into a new area. 

Jackson and Olivia thought the cavern was super cool. I see a Natural Bridge field trip in our future.

We finished our tour just as the cavern was about to close for the day. I wished we had more time to hike around outdoors, because the Guadalupe Mountains are a really beautiful part of a state with many beautiful areas.

But we had a long drive ahead of us, so we said goodbye to New Mexico and headed home. I can't wait to go back again. 

Although I didn't get my Christmas enchiladas that my guidebook went on about, once back in Austin, I discovered that Serranos will happily douse their cheese enchiladas in half red chile, half green chile. Voila! Christmas in Texas.

New Mexico Part 5: Taos Pueblo

Taos Pueblo gave me mixed feelings.

So, you get to the Pueblo and check in at the visitor center where you pay admission, and also pay to take your camera in. The rules and restrictions posted at the entrance is long. Stay in the public areas, don't enter private residences. Don't take pictures of residents without asking permission (and if you do, you are supposed to tip them.) It boils down to, "Remember, people live here, it's not an amusement park."

You couldn't ask to live in a more beautiful setting. The Sangre de Cristo mountains form a perfect natural backdrop for the pueblo.

And this is living history. This apartment building is estimated to be 1000 years old, and it is still occupied.

The traditional adobe homes and stores have no air conditioning. In fact they have no electricity or running water.

Water comes from a stream that runs through the pueblo.

Cooking is done in outdoor hearths.

One of the few architectural changes over the years is the addition of doors to the homes. Hundreds of years ago, residents used ladders to climb up into their dwellings. This was a means of protection...if enemies show up, simply pull up the ladders.

There wasn't a lot of activity in the pueblo when we visited. I read later that about 150 people live in the pueblo, but some of them have second homes and only stay in the pueblo during ceremonial times.

I was surprised to learn that most of the community is Catholic. But it is a form of Catholicism combined with their own indigenous traditions, the details of which are not revealed to outsiders.

The reason they are kept secret because of persecution over the years. Sad.

The Taos Pueblo has been the site of a great deal of conflict. In 1847, when New Mexico became a state, Taos leaders rebelled and killed the governor. American troops came to the Pueblo and burned down the rebels inside their church. The remains of the church stand in what is now the Pueblo cemetery.  Sad.

So our trip to Taos Pueblo included both beauty and sadness. It was definitely educational. It felt a little strange to be walking around taking pictures of a place where people live, but it was also cool to be able to see this unique site firsthand and learn its history.

When we made our itinerary, we planned to start driving back towards home after seeing Taos, but we liked Santa Fe so much that we decided to spend another night there. So we checked back into our hotel and walked over to the Plaza for dinner at The Shed. A frosty margarita was just what I needed after a day of strong emotions.

Tony started with cool, spicy gazpacho.

All entrees at The Shed come with complimentary garlic bread. A little weird for a Mexican restaurant, but you know what?  I'm on board with this decision. I totally prefer garlic bread to beans and rice.

The Shed only serves their cheese enchiladas with red chile sauce, so I never did get my Christmas enchiladas that I was looking for. But oh my goodness, this red chile sauce...there are no words. I would marry these enchiladas.  Best sauce ever, so rich, with just the right amount of heat.

Sadly, I could not stay in Santa Fe and eat these enchiladas every night for the rest of my life. Tomorrow, homeward bound...with a stop at Carlsbad Caverns.

New Mexico Part 4: Santa Fe and Taos

I can't really think of another city that has its own unique architectural style the way Santa Fe does with its adobe, Spanish Pueblo buildings. Some actually date back hundreds of years, like the Palace of the Governors.

Other buildings are much newer, but reflect that same style. The overall effect is that you approach Santa Fe and see no high-rises, no postmodern eyesores. The mountains take center stage, rather than the buildings.

We spent our first evening wandering around the Plaza, noticing cool graffiti...

Pretty tiles...

Beautiful buildings...

And a burro.

We stayed at the Santa Fe Sage Inn, which we loved because it was affordable yet within walking distance of all the sights. The pool right outside our room was a huge bonus for our water babies. The pools in Austin had already closed for the year, so we loved getting extra chances to swim while on vacation!

In the morning, we drove up to Taos. It's a beautiful drive through the Rio Grande Gorge.

As we approached the town of Taos, we stopped to check out the San Francisco de Asis mission church. It was a subject for artists like Ansel Adams and Georgia O'Keeffe

I thought it was interesting to look at from all angles.

An art class was camped out, working on their sketches.

Jackson and Olivia weren't sure what to make of buildings that were constructed out of straw and mud.  They kept touching the exterior walls of the church.

We had lunch at La Cueva before heading up to Taos Pueblo. We started with chips, guac, and salsa.

I was super excited to try the "Christmas" enchiladas that my guidebook went on about, served with red and green chile sauces. Somehow I hadn't encountered them until this point in my trip. When I spotted these veggie enchiladas on the menu, there was no question I'd order anything else. Unfortunately, they weren't that great. Both sauces were bland, and the green sauce was kind of goopy, like it was made with cornstarch...just weird.

Up next, Taos Pueblo, and the search for Christmas enchiladas continues.

New Mexico Part 3: Albuquerque and on to Santa Fe

We reached Albuquerque in the afternoon, checked into our hotel, and realized that the ABQ BioPark Aquarium was nearby and we could squeeze in a visit before it closed for the day.

First stop for me was the stingray tank. I love them. Look at that creepy little face. It's smiling at me.

The top attraction for Jackson and Olivia was the shark tank.

Moray eels are one of the freakiest creatures I've encountered. This guy just laid there making direct eye contact with us and opening and closing its gaping jaw. Without speaking, it told me it will haunt my dreams.

Thank goodness for tiny jellyfish. Everyone: "Aww, tiny jellyfish!" (Moray eel: "I'm still here. Waiting.")

On the lower level, a pirate ship display allowed Captain Olivia to practice her navigational skills.

After saying goodbye to our aquatic friends, we had dinner at Church St. Cafe. I forgot to take a picture. I was still full from lunch, so Olivia and I shared a quesadilla. The coolest thing about this restaurant was the building, which dates all the way back to 1706.

There are many old buildings in the aptly named Old Town section of Albuquerque. This church, San Felipe de Neri, is also over 300 years old.

On the Old Town plaza, the kids made a new friend and stretched their legs.

Goofballs, ready to head back to the hotel and hit the hot tub before bed.

The next morning we had a few stops to make before heading out of town. First, The Candy Lady, a cute little candy shop.

Pinons (pine nuts) were a big thing in New Mexico; I saw them used in lots of different ways. Pinon caramels? Awesome.

And here's where I reveal the extent of Tony's and my Breaking Bad love obsession.

The Candy Lady made all the "product" used on the show. It's actually blue rock candy. And now she sells little baggies of it. 

We also visited the White residence. How many pizzas do you think have been thrown on that garage roof?

The car wash is a few blocks away.

After we finished dorking out over BB landmarks, it was on to Santa Fe. We arrived in town hungry and, thanks to my guidebook, stumbled upon the wonderful Cowgirl BBQ. The children's patio was just what this travel-weary family needed. Beer for me and Tony, and a playscape, chalkboard, and beanbag toss game for Jackson and Olivia. 

Austin may be proud of their barbecue, but they really shouldn't be until they get a Cowgirl BBQ.  Not only is the children's area awesome, so is the food -- and for a barbecue place, there were a ton of veggie options including tofu fajitas, veggie burgers, and butternut squash casserole! I long for a BBQ place in Austin with multiple veggie options and a playscape. It would make dining with my parents so much easier.

We started with the Cabeza de Ajo, roasted heads of garlic served with melted jack cheese, tomatillo salsa, and crostini.

I had the daily special (yep, a vegetarian daily special), mushroom ravioli served over braised kale. Wonderful. 

Santa Fe, what other wonders do you contain? We shall find out tomorrow.

From me and my stingray BFF, have an A1 day!